![Leopards and humans have long lived side-by-side in Bera, a quaint town in India’s desert state of Rajasthan. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/F6562RGWKKR6363KB65IPDFKJA.jpg?smart=true&auth=110312624b75f5ec12919461e7c2b6c0d6463517f4e8758a3272eaeb70bd2ae9&width=400&height=225)
![The community’s remarkable co-existence with leopards is due to a deep spiritual connection, the locals say. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/JRN4IKSPR3XU5XLDGJPN4DBZUM.jpg?smart=true&auth=e3d638f6d32f61442aba300d588c83c02cdd0d0956dac6231d5c99e25121cb6f&width=400&height=225)
![Rabari women sgare their food and culinary raditions with visitors. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/K7HT3JBYDXDK3RPOOP7KGZTDPM.jpg?smart=true&auth=a36816da7b582d23c90ce08ea878ef03c0c95fc5e380437da595eb24a22a4ef4&width=400&height=225)
![Rabari men traditionally wear white dhotis, red turbans and silver amulets. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/4IYD7ZTUY7PRPGULRWLKBVR3CM.jpg?smart=true&auth=d5197a6729694ab8fad0a11cff8f8d84c546129b449db3f3ddcbb050b481ea61&width=400&height=225)
![Many Rabari men sport long thick moustaches, often twirled into creative shapes. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/TJZTOMNQ35N6DK6LA6IMFIXAQ4.jpg?smart=true&auth=5b2e1cbde4d8fd6be2a5fedb890c6c4a99ef978d14e6bc7588e25b96868ccbb5&width=400&height=225)
![Rabaris are part of a shepherding community who migrated to Rajasthan from Iran via Afghanistan a thousand years ago. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/CSJZIHG34VVALJNSABECICPGMU.jpg?smart=true&auth=8de9223339f069470fc4d6c41b7e1b0299c57131d8ecb89e38b4ff9fb952bc7e&width=400&height=225)
![Bera, a quaint town in India’s desert state of Rajasthan, lies between the tourist meccas of Udaipur and Jodhpur. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/NNQXOBMNKTQCIHKOMWT4NOODWY.jpg?smart=true&auth=b54df33785966f9d64f5a5cc812c1392d4d21e5e3da6ce20e318290d522f501d&width=400&height=225)
![Bera contains the highest concentration of leopards on the planet. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/MN5JWDLD6NW7BNKUU4IZEBNZQA.jpg?smart=true&auth=d2cfea30a25b681cb19fb4713cc1c23e57e592e4263756d5ffb7d29d43785e3e&width=400&height=225)
![Leopards and humans have long lived side-by-side in Bera, a quaint town in India’s desert state of Rajasthan. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/F6562RGWKKR6363KB65IPDFKJA.jpg?smart=true&auth=110312624b75f5ec12919461e7c2b6c0d6463517f4e8758a3272eaeb70bd2ae9&width=400&height=225)
![The community’s remarkable co-existence with leopards is due to a deep spiritual connection, the locals say. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/JRN4IKSPR3XU5XLDGJPN4DBZUM.jpg?smart=true&auth=e3d638f6d32f61442aba300d588c83c02cdd0d0956dac6231d5c99e25121cb6f&width=400&height=225)
![Rabari women sgare their food and culinary raditions with visitors. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/K7HT3JBYDXDK3RPOOP7KGZTDPM.jpg?smart=true&auth=a36816da7b582d23c90ce08ea878ef03c0c95fc5e380437da595eb24a22a4ef4&width=400&height=225)
![Rabari men traditionally wear white dhotis, red turbans and silver amulets. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/4IYD7ZTUY7PRPGULRWLKBVR3CM.jpg?smart=true&auth=d5197a6729694ab8fad0a11cff8f8d84c546129b449db3f3ddcbb050b481ea61&width=400&height=225)
![Many Rabari men sport long thick moustaches, often twirled into creative shapes. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/TJZTOMNQ35N6DK6LA6IMFIXAQ4.jpg?smart=true&auth=5b2e1cbde4d8fd6be2a5fedb890c6c4a99ef978d14e6bc7588e25b96868ccbb5&width=400&height=225)
![Rabaris are part of a shepherding community who migrated to Rajasthan from Iran via Afghanistan a thousand years ago. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/CSJZIHG34VVALJNSABECICPGMU.jpg?smart=true&auth=8de9223339f069470fc4d6c41b7e1b0299c57131d8ecb89e38b4ff9fb952bc7e&width=400&height=225)
![Bera, a quaint town in India’s desert state of Rajasthan, lies between the tourist meccas of Udaipur and Jodhpur. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/NNQXOBMNKTQCIHKOMWT4NOODWY.jpg?smart=true&auth=b54df33785966f9d64f5a5cc812c1392d4d21e5e3da6ce20e318290d522f501d&width=400&height=225)
![Bera contains the highest concentration of leopards on the planet. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/MN5JWDLD6NW7BNKUU4IZEBNZQA.jpg?smart=true&auth=d2cfea30a25b681cb19fb4713cc1c23e57e592e4263756d5ffb7d29d43785e3e&width=400&height=225)
![Leopards and humans have long lived side-by-side in Bera, a quaint town in India’s desert state of Rajasthan. Courtesy Jawai Wild Camp](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/F6562RGWKKR6363KB65IPDFKJA.jpg?smart=true&auth=110312624b75f5ec12919461e7c2b6c0d6463517f4e8758a3272eaeb70bd2ae9&width=400&height=225)
Bera: The Indian village where man and leopard have co-existed for more than a century
In a craggy corner of Rajasthan, humans and big cats have come to a comfortable truce
Neeta Lal
September 19, 2020
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September 19, 2020